"Factory-made bras don't fit all body types the same," says Anna Castellani of the Bra Smyth, a New York City store/catalog that specializes in bra alterations and special orders. To find one suited just to you: 1. Forget your supposed cup size.
Don't discount the possibility that you may need to go up or down a cup. When you try on the bra, the fabric should not gap, flatten or squeeze you anywhere.
2. Leave yourself room to breathe.
"Most people are wider across the back than they realize," says Castellani. To ensure a comfy fit — as well as to prevent skin-pinching and back bulges — fasten the middle clasp, then check your rear view. Any sign of fabric strain means you need a larger band size.
3. Get wired (or not).
Underwires provide the most support for B-cups and above. (A-cups may get better shaping from a wireless, lightly lined or padded bra.) The wire should rest flat against your breastbone, and its tips should not poke you under the arms.
4. Stock up.
"When you do find a bra that fits, buy as many as you can afford so that you're not strapped if the style gets discontinued," says Castellani.
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